Nature doesn’t always follow our travel itineraries, but a closed canal and an unexpected detour through southwest France reminded us of the true meaning of rolling with the waves. From private biodynamic wine tastings to sleepless nights on hard beds, this is our honest review of an eleven-night journey through the Canal du Garonne.
2026-04-15
There is an art to slow travel, and sometimes, that art requires you to rewrite the entire script before you even step on board. Recently, a group of eight of us - four couples, with our husbands taking the wheel as captains - set out for an eleven-night adventure. Our grand plan was to glide along the historic waters of the famous Canal du Midi on a Le Boat charter. However, Mother Nature had other ideas. A severe weather event just before our arrival left the Canal du Midi completely closed to canal boats. With our original itinerary washed away, we pivoted to the closest available option: the Canal du Garonne. Travel writing often glosses over the disappointments, but at Once Were Wild , we believe in depth and honesty over polished fairytales. To be entirely candid, the Canal du Garonne did not match the pristine magic of the Midi. The scenery was less spectacular than we had envisioned, and the sleepy towns along the banks lacked that vibrant, bustling French energy we had expected. To add to the challenge, life inside our spacious boat was a mix of premium convenience and structural grit. While the layout was generous and every bedroom featured the luxury of its own private ensuite, the beds themselves were incredibly small, hard, and uncomfortable. It turns out that even the most beautiful river view loses a bit of its luster after a string of sleepless nights. Yet, when you slow your pace down to the speed of a canal boat, the magic has a way of finding you anyway. That is the beauty of an unrushed journey - it leaves room for the highlights to shine through. Our absolute standout day was spent on two wheels. We cycled from the town of Langon out to Château de la Corne, where the owners, Steve and Diana, welcomed us for a private tasting and lunch. They were spectacular hosts, the food was exquisite, and the wine was exceptional. Listening to Steve passionately unpack the intricacies of the biodynamic winemaking process was utterly fascinating, cementing it as a core highlight of our entire eleven days. The culinary adventures didn't stop there. On another afternoon, we cycled to Vianne for an excellent, indulgent foie gras lunch at Café des Marronniers. We also found pockets of true French charm in the town of Moissac, and the girls took a wonderful train side-trip to the highly picturesque town of Montauban, which was thoroughly delightful. Despite